Pictures.

My grading system.

Gradings: Robstoys 2008-03-10

1A: Mint/Boxed/ Rare or Scarce.
1B: Mint /NB/Rare or Scarce.
1C: Mint/Boxed/As new.
1D: Mint/NB

2A: Nearly Mint/Boxed/Rare or Scarce.
2B: Nearly Mint/NB/Rare or Scarce.
2C: Nearly Mint/Boxed/Box takes precedence.
2D: Nearly Mint/NB

3A: Used/Boxed/Rare or Scarce.
3B: Used/NB/Rare or Scarce.
3C: Used/Boxed/Box takes precedence.
3D: Used/NB

4A: Good-well used/boxed/Rare or Scarce
4B: Good-well-used/NB/Rare or Scarce
4C: Good-well used/Boxed/Box take precedence.
4D: Good-well used/NB

5A: Poor/Boxed/Rare or Scarce
5B: Poor/NB/Rare or Scarce
5C: Poor/Boxed/Box takes precedence
5D: Poor/NB

Restored models and reproduction boxes :

Restored models may gain value by having a box and rarity.
Any mint model with a repro box may lose 30-40%.
A poor model with a repro box may gain 10%
A restored model with incorrect color scheme may lose 60-80%

All the above are subject to demand and supply .
Special sets (e.g Corgi Chipperfields) will always command high prices.

NB means No Box.

My colleagues are divided over my grading system as they say it does not take supply and demand (the fickle market) into consideration. In my next post I'll include other grading systems and include more photos from my collection.

Photos and grades: My system

There are various systems used to grade model diecast vehicles. Some are very simple using condition A, B or C but I prefer to use my own grading system that covers most conditions and rarity. The grading of Dinky and Corgi models can be quite fickle and some models may be advertised at much higher prices on specialist sites than, say on E-Bay. We have to remember that on E-Bay the seller is King and he can ask what he likes. Some models are outrageously under-priced and some are over-priced. I feel that a) if you use my grading system you can avoid inflated prices, and, b) if prices are ridiculously low go for it! It all depends on the seller's needs and buyer demand: Some sellers are naive about value anyway. Let me give you an example: Dinky 40j is an Austin Somerset. This model is scarce but some seller somewhere does not know this so he puts it up on E-Bay in fair condition for 5 pounds sterling (no box/playworn). Another seller puts the same model in the same condition on E-Bay at 20 pounds sterling. Collectors will snap both of these up because the model is scarce. If I'm not making sense then let's just say that demand will always pre-dominate. And that's what I mean by fickle (in the seller's case).

This same Austin Somerset can fetch a catalogue value of 100 sterling if mint and boxed. We should never underestimate the possibility that we can buy a bargain from the naive seller BUT if you want top grade, then you are dealing with an informed seller and he won't budge from top price.

Sounds confusing but it's all a case of scarcity and supply and demand. Picture above is of a scarce model: A Dinky Toys Peugeot 504 made in Spain with a mint box. Spanish Dinkys are scarce and this is a genuine brand spanking new model in a beauty of a box. However it is only worth 80 Sterling because there was not much demand for this model of a car with little personality and long in the tooth (35 years ago the car was very popular). Older cars sometimes only come into their own at a later stage. I'll keep this beauty for a while and sell it on at 150 sterling in five years time.

The ideal buy or sell.

This is a test of photo resolution and my ability with a camera, which is somewhat shaky to say the least!



Pictured is a Corgi State Patrol police car in mint condition with a mint box in the background. I thought I'd devote my second post to an example of the best you can get.



What is the "best" you can collect? Here are some tips:

-The model must be in mint condition with no chips, scratches or marks on the body. The windows must be clear with no cracks or misting.

-Extras such as the whip aerial, must be intact. The sticker (in this case) must be undamaged.

-The wheels and tyres should be as new with no signs of rust on the wheels or wear on the tyres.

- The base plate must be free of rust, scratches or marks.

-The box should show no signs of crush damage, graffiti or missing flaps. On older Corgis and Dinkys a written price adds provenance. Colours on the box should be bright and clear.

-Every item on the model and the box should look as good as new therefore, mint. The model will, obviously, have spent most of its life unplayed with.



This model is one of my favourites simply because it has great paintwork. I don't care too much about values as I don't sell my models but the indicative market price for a model in this condition is about 100 Sterling or 200 dollars.



In my next post I hope to show you some more mint examples as well as some that are a step down from this quality.

Collect, collect, collect.

I honestly don't know whether my collections are worth all that much but I have learnt a lot in the past years about collecting and I go by my gut feeling. I have learnt that collecting fake watches is a waste of time but seeking out older models of Omega, Patek Phillipe and Cartier are well worth the effort.

But they're expensive ---too expensive for me--however, if you have the cash, seek them out. A forties or fifties watch may surprise with its value and its gold content (in many cases). There are many examples to be found in the Khan El Khalili market in Cairo, where I live.

The point here is: choose wisely and build a collection that is going to become an investment. I chose South African banknotes, Dinky toys and Corgi toys of the fifties, sixties and seventies, token coinage and the scarce Strachan tokens from South Africa. In the coming weeks I shall be talking about all of these as well as the "do's" and "dont's" of collecting. Please look out for these articles:

• Dinky and Corgi. Worth it?
• Restorations of die-cast models.
• Other die cast collectibles.
• Parts and boxes for die-cast models.
• Tokens.
• Banknotes.
• Gold coins.
• And other interesting collector items.